Lunar New Year Sunrise and Rituals

So you might be wondering – why are we celebrating “New Years” in February?

Mongolians have a ceremonial lunar calendar, which is similar to the Chinese lunar calendar. For daily life they use the same calendar as the rest of the world, but the lunar calendar is used throughout the year to identify holidays and also auspicious/lucky days for important events (if you want to buy a house, or get married, or start a new business – you check the calendar first for an auspicious day).

Lunar New Year is the first day of the first month of the new Lunar year. Typically this falls around the 2nd New Moon after the Winter Solstice.

Prior to Christianity in Europe, the West would’ve followed a similar schedule, celebrating the Winter and Summer solstice, and doing a big celebration for the coming of Spring (which the church combined into Easter celebrations – hence bunnies and eggs symbolizing fertility.) I like the idea that “New Year” coincides with the coming of Spring, which always feels like a fresh start, doesn’t it? Makes much more sense than having a fresh start in the middle of winter, right?! Maybe we’d have better luck with our New Years resolutions of starting new healthy habits if they started with longer days and warmer weather … rather than trying to motivate to go to the gym at 6AM in the dead of winter in the dark!! But I digress…

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Lunar New Year in Mongolia

I’ve just been handed a large drinking bowl of white liquid, and there are ten pairs of eyes fixated on me… assessing me…

We are in a family Ger (Yurt), somewhere in the Gobi Desert. it took us 2 hours on asphalt roads, followed by 6 hours of off-road driving to get to the small town (Erdenedalai) that is our home for three nights. We then did a further 30min off-road this morning to reach our driver’s brother’s winter home. Here surrounded by rough Gobi terrain in all directions, are four Gers of differing sizes and a stone & wood enclosure to protect the animals from the worst of the winter weather.

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Beijing: Gift Buying, Great Wall and Chest Colds!

We were SO looking forward to our five days in Beijing. Not only to explore the city and visit The Forbidden City and The Great Wall … but to soak up the luxury of The Grand Hyatt hotel to restore us before the next rough leg of our trip.

Just before we moved to Hong Kong, Zak spent the better part of a year living in a Hyatt for a work project. So he had a LOT of Hyatt points, some of which he redeemed for five nights in the Grand Hyatt in Beijing.

Aside from the cushy room, complimentary happy hours in the Club Lounge and great breakfast spread, the hotel also had one of the best Peking Duck restaurants in the city – so we had to indulge.

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Harbin Ice Festival: Yep, it’s Cold!

Who wants to drink hot Coca-Cola with grated ginger?

We do! We do! At least, we do when it’s -26C (-15F) and we’re at the Harbin Ice Festival.

Harbin (yellow star) in the far NorthEast of China has a reputation for being super cold!

You might remember the nervous laughs and “oooh Harbin is cold!!!” reactions we got Every Single Time we mentioned to a Chinese person that we’re going to Harbin. I was starting to think we were a little crazy for even going there.

From lovely, ancient Pingyao, we had to do quite a long train trek to Harbin.  6 hours to Beijing, spend the night (in a very nice Marriott by the train station, thanks to frequent flier points), and then an 8.5 hour train journey the next day to Harbin.

In total, we were in Harbin for just over 24 hours. With 16 hours to and from Beijing (not counting the time in the station waiting for our train!) Was it worth that LONG train journey, just to freeze at an Ice and Snow Festival? You be the judge…

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Ancient Pingyao: In Search of Cozy

Bright sunshine. Daytime highs just below freezing. Beautiful, ancient walled city, with many small lantern-hung alleyways and old buildings to explore. Feeling tired after a morning of exploring. Want a nice cup of tea and a sit down. But every restaurant we see looks exactly the same: same picture menu, same food on offer, same wooden benches for seating. Oh Pingyao, isn’t there anywhere cozy to sit and watch the world go by???

Pingyao is China’s best-preserved ancient walled city. The town was established in 827 BC (!), and the current city walls were built in 1370. The city is gorgeous. Especially in the middle of winter when there are few tourists (and absolutely no Westerners – 99% of tourists are mainland Chinese.)

But our two days here have me perplexed. I wish I had a Chinese friend to ask. Don’t the Chinese people like ‘cozy’ places in cold weather? Where do they hang out when they’re too tired to walk around? Why aren’t there any cafes or tea houses? Why does every restaurant in town have the exact same menu with the same pictures?!  Why do all the restaurants have uncomfortable wooden benches for seating?! And where does everyone go in the evenings? (We see some other tourists during the day, but in the evenings it’s just empty! Just the two of us, wandering the streets, looking for a warm, toasty bar for a drink and then dinner…)

Aside from these perplexing questions – Pingyao is amazing. I read online that it gets quite touristy in the summer months, but in February it’s deserted, and like really stepping back in time.

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How to Pack for China, Mongolia and Siberia in Winter

Packing for 10 weeks of travel across China, Mongolia and Siberia was a challenge. Oh how easy it would’ve been to pack for 10 weeks in Southeast Asia: bikini, flip flops, sarong, sun hat… but no. In this case we needed heavy winter gear. Boots, wool socks, long underwear, insulated everything, huge parka jacket, hats, mittens … all items which take up a lot of space in a suitcase.

Then there are some other tricky considerations:

  • We’re traveling for 10 weeks!
  • Alternating cities with more isolated locations. (So we’ll want a solid amount of health supplies and comfort items, in case we can’t get them on the road.)
  • We’re traveling long distances by train, which means endless hours of looking out train windows – so we need entertainment: e-readers, music, blogging gear (like a small laptop), phones, cameras … and then all the chargers that go with them.
  • Luggage limitations: Traveling by train, you’ve got to be able to carry your own bags up and down stairs. And there isn’t much luggage storage space in the cabins.

So we’ve got lots of things we’d like to bring, plus really heavy clothing and outwear, and a small bag… it was a recipe for lots of packing, and repacking, removing items each time.

In the end, we had to make our best guess about what would be most essential and useful on our trip, and leave the rest behind.

Here’s what made it into our bags as we started our journey… Continue reading “How to Pack for China, Mongolia and Siberia in Winter”

It’s Friday! (I think…)

We are leaving Xi’an, heading for Pingyao. It’s Friday, or at least I think it is. I am finding with this long term travel, the days start to lose meaning. Maybe the weekend is busier at the tourist attractions, or fewer places are open on a Sunday, but I have very quickly lost track of which day it is.

Back at home (wherever that may be) we all have a routine, usually dictated by the day of the week. Monday morning closes out the weekend as we head off to work, Wednesday… hump day… the joy of Friday afternoon, leading into the weekend once again. Other things cause us to almost instinctively know which day it is… your email inbox tells you, which night your team’s weekly football match is played on, when your favourite TV show comes on, laundry day, all these things constantly remind us on a daily basis.

But we don’t have any of this. I glance at my email every couple of days, in case something urgent has come in, we don’t get much access to English TV, and laundry day is usually every evening in the hotel sink.

While we were in Tibet, we were amused by this one hotel having a carpet in the lift that said ‘Monday’ on it, then the next morning the same lift had a different carpet, this time saying ‘Tuesday’. We had a laugh about this, comparing it to day-of-the-week underpants. Some days later I wanted to know what day it was and I found myself having to work out how many days it had been since the lift carpet told my it was ‘Tuesday’…

Is this a problem?

You might think with our planned schedule of train tickets, tours and hotel rooms (all laid out in a big spreadsheet), that this would cause issues. However, rather than days of the week, we find ourselves counting the days by how many full days we have in each location. For example I am currently on a train to Pingyao, I know that today is train travel, then I have two full days to explore, then the day after that we are back on a train to our next destination.

I am finding this quite liberating. Despite there being a schedule, it does not feel like the usual daily grind of five days at work, then the weekend. We move from one place to the next, choosing what sights to see, lazy days of rest are taken when needed, we don’t need to make sure we are in front of the TV for specific shows or be regimented by what day of the week it is. It’s a very relaxing experience not being tied to days of the week.

But I digress, i’m sitting on a train, I guess it’s Friday…. but I’ve absolutely no idea what the date is!

Xi’an: Terracotta Warriors and Dumplings

When we were planning our 30-days in China, the one place I absolutely did not want to miss was seeing The Terracotta Warriors in Xi’an. And we’re finally here!

Xi’an (pronounced “she-ahn”) is a city in north-central China, and a former capitol of the ancient Chinese empire. It’s also the first “tourist” destination we’ve visited on this trip. Until now, we’ve been off the standard tourist trail, and have often been the only Westerners around. That will start to change as we hit the more populated areas of China, and especially the big tourist attractions.

We took an 8-hour train ride from Jiayuguan to Xi’an in “first class” seats, which really was just a smaller cabin with larger seats, not particularly luxurious. But 8 hours seems short compared to our previous train journeys!

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Jiayuguan: He Says, She Says

We took a 1-day tour of Jiayuguan (Gee-Uh-You-Gwon), the town at the westernmost end of The Great Wall. It was also our coldest day in China yet. We thought it’d be fun to compare our perspectives on the sites today, so here we go with a little He Said / She Said…

Jiayuguan Fort

Zak Says:

We wake up for our only full day in Jiayuguan and its COLD. There is snow on the ground and light snowfall in the air. After a quick breakfast we meet our guide and driver in the lobby, then head off to the Fort. It was a strategic fort placed in a narrow (15 Km wide) corridor between two mountain ranges. From either side of the fort, portions of The Great Wall stretched out to the mountains, forcing anyone coming from the West (and The Silk Road) to come through the Fort. I love forts, they contain so much thought and planning, its not every building where you have to incorporate the fact that people outside the building may try to knock it down to get at the people inside.
It was great to be able to walk the battlements and through the entry maze traps. Parts of this fort are original, and while I believe the guide said it was early Ming Dynasty, I have to admit I was looking at sight lines, and imagining attack or defence plans rather than listening most of the time.

Amanda Says:

This was our first experience with real cold and snow on this trip. I definitely didn’t dress appropriately. And it was slippery walking around. Got some amazing pictures of the lake and the Fort in the snowy early morning sun. Then my iPhone (which I was using as a camera) died from the cold. My toes got cold. It was interesting walking around the top and seeing The Great Wall on either side of the Fort. My favourite part was going inside to the museum where we saw 1,500 year old horse sculptures that a farmer found beneath his field. Those were really impressive. Made me think of what the Terracotta Army might be like when we eventually see it in Xi’an.

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Winter is Coming. For Real.

8AM in Jiayuguan. I wonder what we should wear today? Let me check the weather on my phone.

It’ll hit 0 degrees by 10AM and then a high of 6 degrees in the afternoon.

Quick calculation … 0 degrees celsius is 32 F … and 6 is 43F.

I tell Zak it’ll be a little colder than Tibet, but not too bad.

We dress and step outside.


I’m confused. This doesn’t feel like 32 degrees…

And then I realise my mistake. Of COURSE my phone is in Fahrenheit. Why was I thinking in Celsius? It’s currently 0F and going to be 6F as today’s high (that’s -18C and -14C!)

It’s our first experience of proper cold winter weather on this trip – and it’s only going to get worse…

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